A few brief and foggy notes.
We opened a 1987 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet a few nights ago. Reeking of volatile acidity, with nasty vegetal stuff behind it, we just let it sit and went for a 1991 La Jota Howell Mountain Selection, which was massive, dense and dark and got more so as we got deeper into the bottle. The last pour was like ink. I'll let these sit a while yet and hope the fruit lasts. It's there now but hard to define other than as something like "blackberry thicket."
But the Silver Oak saga wasn't over. The next night, the VA had mostly blown off. The typical SO flavors were more evident. It was OK. Before the prices at SO got tacky, I bought lots of the stuff. I didn't like the '87 Alex much when I tasted it on release and didn't buy any (I bought a double dose of Napa instead, which sold for the same price back then), and this bottle was contributed by my S.O. But there is some question about these '87s generally. Are they going to mature before the fruit dies? And is anyone else getting sick of asking this question?
On another note, I've gone and gotten a serious revived crush on Brunello di Montelcino. Must be the change of seasons. With spring trying to take over from one of the nastiest winters in recent memory, I'm reluctantly releasing my passion for Rhones in favor of lighter reds. But care is required. I don't have nearly the stash of Brunellos that I have of Châteauneufs. We tried a 1990 Nardi with an absolutely delicious game dinner at a restaurant a few weeks ago. Near the top of its game and possibly a touch past. But perfect with just about every dish from quail to venison. And just the other night, a revelation. We've been making a Jacques Pepin recipe for veal scallopine with shallots, amagnac and a touch of cream for years without finding a completely satisfactory wine match. Burgundies were good but never a bullseye. A 1988 Col D'Orcia Brunello hit the mark spot on. Another star just beginning to fade. Maybe. Don't know why I didn't think of this before. Aged Brunellos are amazingly versatile and go with lots of dishes that are too "red" for white but not "big" enough for a hearty red. Unfortunately, they are now also expensive, as well.
